El Poiret de Viena

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill. Austrian Designer. Photography. 1929

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill. Austrian Designer. Photography. 1929

Viena. 1900. Después de Paris la meca de la moda. La estética espartana nunca tuvo derecho de ciudadanía en una metrópolis que concedía al vestido un gusto chic e imaginativo. La creatividad de los artistas vieneses permitió al “vestido anti moda” enfrentarse a las necedades indumentarias de la época, aunque sin imponerse. No se abandonarían los objetivos de simplicidad y funcionalidad, sino que serían impuestos a la moda y despojados de sus ideales aburridos para ser transformados en algo decorativo y llevable.

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill nació en Viena el 2 de abril de 1882. Director de vestuario del Cabaret Flendermaus y de Maskenspiele, se unió a la Wiener Werkstätte (Taller Vienes) en 1907 desempeñándose como primer director artístico del departamento de moda entre 1910 y 1922. También dirigió el departamento de moda en la Escuela de Artes Aplicadas de Viena y trabajó en New York y Chicago.

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20031013Uno de los temas principales que identifican al Taller Vienes es su audacia en el diseño, en particular en lo que se refiere al diseño textil. El trabajo textil de Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill tanto para interiores y moda, usa motivos gráficos audaces, muy a menudo sobre la base de las flores. Por iniciativa de Paul Poiret, el gran renovador de la moda parisina y afín a la cultura vienesa, eliminó todas las fundas-corazas de los corsés, ofreciendo alternativas seductoras como el vestido imperio y creando tejidos con motivos multicolores y rebosantes de fantasía, dando origen a un nuevo tipo de mujer.

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.870) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651011

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.870)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651011

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (13.9 × 9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.862) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/650993

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (13.9 × 9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.862)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/650993

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.861) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/650992

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.861)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/650992

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (13.9 × 9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.867) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651006

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (13.9 × 9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.867)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651006

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.868) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651008

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.868)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651008

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.869) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651009

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (14 × 9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.869)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651009

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 1/2 in. (14 × 8.9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.864) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651005

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 1/2 in. (14 × 8.9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.864)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651005

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna) Fashion (Mode), 1912 Austrian,  Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (13.9 × 9 cm) The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.863) http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651003

Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill (Austrian, Vienna 1882–1961 Vienna)
Fashion (Mode), 1912
Austrian,
Color lithograph; Sheet: 5 1/2 × 3 9/16 in. (13.9 × 9 cm)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Museum Accession, transferred from the Library (WW.863)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/651003